Here’s a story about the rise of patchouli in the Victorian era.
We’ve heard a lot of about patchouli of the 1960’s but what about just a little while before then?
During the Victorian era, patchouli oil became a symbol of exoticism and luxury in Europe, largely due to its association with the East. The story begins with the rise of the British Empire in India and the burgeoning trade networks between Europe and the East.
Patchouli, (comes from the Tamil words ‘pachchai’ meaning green and ‘ilai’ meaning green), native to Southeast Asia, was widely used in India and China not only for its fragrant aroma but also as an insect repellent for silks and other valuable fabrics during long sea voyages. In the 19th century, patchouli found its way into European markets, particularly as the British Empire facilitated the trade of goods between Asia and Europe.
One fascinating story is how patchouli became intertwined with the Silk Trade, especially when Indian fabrics, such as shawls and silk scarves, began to be shipped to Europe. European buyers were drawn to the rich, dark fabrics from India, but they were often sceptical about their quality due to the pungent, earthy scent that clung to them. The strong odour was, in fact, the patchouli used in India to protect the textiles from pests during the long journey by sea.
Over time, however, the patchouli fragrance itself became desirable to European customers. The scent, once associated with “foreignness,” quickly became fashionable among the wealthy, particularly in England and France. It was especially popular in the 19th century with the rise of Parisian haute couture, where perfumes containing patchouli became synonymous with wealth, mystery, and luxury. It was often used in high-end perfumes and became a staple in the wardrobes of Parisian elite women, influencing perfume trends for decades to come.
One notable person who embraced the fragrance was the iconic French Empress Eugénie, the wife of Napoleon III. Eugénie was known for her extravagant fashion and perfume preferences, and she is believed to have been one of the earliest European adopters of patchouli as part of her personal scent. As Parisian society often followed the Empress’s lead, patchouli soon became a key note in many popular perfumes of the time, solidifying its place in European luxury culture.
In the context of this trade and fashion, patchouli came to symbolize the allure of the Orient, contributing to the Western fascination with “exotic” scents. The scent eventually became so popular in Europe that it transcended its original use as a textile preservative and became a cherished element of European perfumery.
So, patchouli’s rise from an overlooked practical item to a symbol of luxury and exotic allure is an interesting example of how trade and cultural exchange can reshape the perception of a product across time and space.
To enjoy this beautiful fragrance with a rich history, try our Patchouli Woods incense sticks. Real patchouli, done incredibly well (if we say so ourselves).
Franz Xaver Winterhalter (1805-1871), The Empress Eugénie, Wearing the Sash of the Order of Queen Maria Luisa (Eugénie de Montijo, 1826–1920, Condesa de Teba), 1854, oil on canvas. Musée d’Orsay.
Patchouli is the best incense for grounding and balancing the emotions. It stimulates and balances the yin or feminine aspects and awakens fertility. Burning these sticks promotes physical stamina, banishes lethargy and sharpens your wits while fighting depression and anxiety.
